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Denim fabric(2)
Update time:2016-10-24 07:20:01 Click Num:5261species
(1) bamboo
When designing slub yarns with different yarn numbers, different slub thicknesses (compared to base yarns), pitch lengths and pitch, slubs are used in single warp or single latitude as well as in both warp and weft directions. Number or different number of normal yarn for the appropriate proportion and arrangement, you can produce a variety of bamboo denim, the clothing washed after processing can be formed into a variety of hazy or more clear the grid-style denim style , By consumer demand for personalized groups welcome. Early bamboo denim is almost all of the use of ring slub yarn, because it can be spinning a shorter length, pitch smaller, relatively large density slub yarn, easy to form a more intensive cloth embellishment effect, and To the bamboo-based. With the development of consumer demand in the market, especially the two-way slub stretch denim denim products, domestic and foreign markets are very popular. And some species as long as the organizational structure design well, the warp can be a single species of ring yarn, weft with the appropriate proportion of slub yarn, the same can achieve the effect of latitude and longitude two-way slub denim.
(2) ring yarn
With the development and application of new process equipment such as ring spinning high-speed, large package, fine network and no knot yarn, short length of coarse yarn spinning, low production efficiency and many knots have been solved. Denim yarn is replaced by the flow of yarn situation is rapidly changing, ring yarn great comeback trend. As the ring yarn denim is superior to some properties of air yarn, such as hand, drape, tear strength, but also because of the psychological return to nature, the pursuit of the original development of the cowboy style, the more important reason is the ring Spinning denim garments after grinding processing, the surface will show a hazy bamboo-like style, is in line with today's personalized denim demand. While the ring can be spun bamboo slender bamboo spindles, but also to promote the development momentum of the ring denim.
(3) the zonal elasticity
The use of spandex stretch yarn, cowboy varieties to the development of a new field, can make jeans are both personal and comfortable, together with the bamboo or a different color, so that cowboy products more suited to fashion, personalized consumer demand, which has Great potential for development. Elastic elongation is generally 20% to 40%, the elastic stretch depends on the size of the fabric design, the fabric of the warp and weft to the organization of the smaller tightness, the greater the elasticity, on the contrary, the tightness of the warp in the organization conditions , The greater the tension of the weft stretch yarn, then the smaller the elasticity, zonal tightness to a certain extent, or even the case of loss of elasticity. In addition, elastic denim finished fabric is a prominent problem is the zonal shrinkage is too large is generally more than 10%, even as high as 20% or more. Unstable cloth to the clothing production has brought great difficulties, the solution is not to make the product design flexibility stretch is too large, generally take 20% to 30%, which maintain a certain latitude and longitude to the organization tightness, and in the Pre-shrinking finishing to take the appropriate method to increase the tension, the cloth has a greater contraction, so as to obtain the finished product to the lower residual shrinkage rate; another solution is elastic denim after pre-shrinking finishing heat-setting treatment , So as to obtain a more uniform cloth width and more stable, low shrinkage of the weft to meet the garment processing and production requirements.
(4) Taose
To increase the indigo cowboy varieties of color, shade changes. For example, indigo sets of sulfur black dye, indigo sets of sulfide green grass, sulfur black and green, sulfur blue, etc., to adapt to market demand for personalized. But also to denim manufacturers have their own patented cowboy new varieties, to improve the competitiveness of the market. This should be noted that, as much as possible to control the concentration of the mother liquor to prevent excessive overflow of dye liquor caused by the waste and the expansion of environmental pollution.
(5) special color
As a result of super-indigo or deep indigo dyeing denim clothing made by the grinding process, the color can be rich and bright brilliant special effects, and widely welcomed by consumers. "Super Indigo" dyeing denim has two characteristics: the depth of dyeing is particularly deep and grinding washing fastness is particularly good. The former refers to the amount of indigo dye dyed per unit weight of yarn (usually% of the yarn accounted for dry weight of the yarn, referred to as the depth of dyeing%) particularly large, such as conventional denim warp indigo dyeing depth of 1% to 3% , While the "super-indigo" dyeing depth is required to reach 4% or more, can be called super indigo or deep indigo. The latter refers to the "super-indigo" denim jeans need to undergo repeated grinding more than 3 hours, the color can still meet or exceed the conventional dyeing denim without grinding the depth of color, and shade than the conventional dyeing denim Rich and bright much more bright. Indigo dyeing denim for the color fastness, its essence depends on the dye on the yarn through the core level, rather than the dye itself, the washing fastness (indigo wet fastness of only 1), that is, through the core The better the degree, the better the color fastness.
In the past, the so-called "rapid dyeing process of indigo dyeing" actually made the indigo dye to be very light-permeable to the fiber during the dyeing process of the yarn, so that when the denim garment was laundered, the yarn surface was extremely thin Layer of dye was worn away, exposing more white yarn core, the color quickly fades, so as to achieve short-term grinding, the effect of fading immediately after. The "super-indigo" dyeing process is contrary to the requirements of the dye through the core is particularly good in order to make denim clothing after grinding processing, access to both deep and bright color.
As the "super-indigo" dyeing denim products than conventional dyeing denim dyeing increased by more than 60%, so the dye concentration of indigo will also be multiplied, even up to 3 ~ 4g / L, it is possible to get deeper Thick color. So that the dye viscosity increased, poor mobility, affecting the dyestuff leaching ability, so that the color of the denim color fastness decreased, less than the final depth of clothing production needs. So some companies to take again to increase the depth of the design of the dye, so that the concentration of dye indigo again increased, the permeability will become worse, so the formation of a vicious cycle, still can not meet the "super-indigo" color requirements. The higher the concentration of indigo dye, the red dye more weight, the darker the color, there is no "super-indigo" effect. This problem can be solved by increasing the number of staining channels. For example, the number of dyeing channels increased to 8, or even 10, not only the investment costs, increased consumption of dye materials, operation more difficult, and increased pollution of the environment. The better way to solve this contradiction is to reduce the proportion of the amount of insurance powder or caustic soda, especially the amount of caustic soda used to control the PH value of the dye stable between 11 to 12, the highest dye uptake and color stability, Appropriate to reduce the dyeing tension of the warp yarn, in order to obtain better "super indigo" dyeing effect